June/July 2019 93
and crunch factor via pumpkin seeds and
roasted almonds.
Given the almost overwhelming level of
menu choices, consulting with a helpful
server is advised. A must is anything with
“black pepper” in the name. That marvelous
Malaysian sauce is here paired with chicken,
beef tenderloin, lamb, halibut, scallops,
prawns or crab. Since all these preparations
include eggplant, green beans and curry
leaves, a meatless version is available, too.
Another mighty tasty popular dish is utama
basil chicken or beef in which the tender
meat is coated in a soft, round, almost sweet
sauce with a touch of heat.
On the spicy-sour end of the spectrum
is the classic Malaysian dish assam fish,
which is here made with perfectly cooked
salmon, halibut or sea bass. The tang comes
from tamarind, with okra and tomatoes
giving this sauce subtlety and round flavors.
Another dish with a zillion versions
depending on whose mother’s kitchen is
cooking it is beef rendang, a rich curry
with more flavor and less liquid than most
curries. Here, this famous sauce is put to
work braising short ribs and is a delight.
But don’t skip the killer noodle choices,
like a flavorful version of pad Thai full of
proteins or lighter but just-as-tasty chow
kueh teow featuring thinner rice noodles
and seafood.
Many dessert options are available, with
the most popular being black sticky rice
with mango—sweetened coconut milk
amps it up—and pandan panna cotta,
which is a considerably lighter, less-sweet
version touched with the unmistakable
flavor of pandan leaf, a popular Southeast
Asian ingredient.
Black Pepper is a pleasing melting pot
that is a perfect fit for the South Bay. Handsome
and modern, with thoughtful, attentive
service and low enough decibels for
flowing conversations, it’s an ideal place
to explore diverse dishes only a Malaysian
grandma could make at home.
BLACK PEPPER, 1029 El Camino Real, Menlo
Park; 650/485-2345. blackpepper-usa.com
HOURS: 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., 5–9:30 p.m. Monday–
Thursday; 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., 5–10 p.m.
Friday; 11:45 a.m.–10 p.m. Saturday. Reservations
recommended.
PRICES: Appetizers, salads, soups: $4–18;
meat and seafood dishes: $18–49; vegetable,
noodle, rice dishes: $15–19; desserts: $6–12. n