October/November 2016 99 France’s standard canned tuna, with a seven-minute farm egg replacing the usual rubbery, quartered pieces. The star of the to-share list is a healthy serving of fat mussels swimming in rich saffron cream sauce. Gilding the lily are shoestring fries drizzled with aioli on top, which are yummy if a bit messy to eat on top of the soupy shellfish. Those frightened of organ meat should make an exception for crispy veal sweetbreads on pureed potato that are punctuated with lemon and capers. The little portion of mild, creamy innard is soothing, satisfying comfort food. Main courses sometimes depart from the brasserie theme but definitely showcase French sauces. So popular it sometimes runs out is luscious trout amandine with almond brown butter showing off delicate pink flesh. The restaurant’s modern interpretation of steak-frites features dry-aged sirloin rather than the often-tough French cuts that sits astride pureed spuds rather than the usual skinny fries. Meat eaters will swoon over mustard-crusted rack of lamb, perfectly cooked and paired with a divine take on Brussels sprouts, sweetly caramelized and punched up with sweet-and-sour shallots. Another winner is fork-tender, flavorful braised pork shank smartly accompanying luscious, slightly tart white bean “cassoulet.” Echoing the “casual” theme is a topdrawer burger au Français that wears Comté cheese with a pickle-brine Hollandaise, all wrapped in a brioche bun. On the dessert side, try dark chocolate tart with brandied cherries, a chocoholic pleaser, while the warm bread pudding with huckleberry jam would make anyone smile. Also producing grins is thoughtful but friendly and knowledgeable service without a hint of the famous French rudeness that might also be traditional. BLACK SHEEP BRASSERIE, 1202 Lincoln Ave., San Jose. (408) 816-7251; www.bsbwillowglen.com HOURS: Tuesday-Thursday, 5-9:30; Friday- Saturday, until 10; Sunday until 9. Sunday brunch 10-2. Reservations recommended. PRICES: Starters: $5-19. Larger plates: $15-34. Desserts: $8-10. n D ON16_Garrod_F.indd 2 9/2/16 1:45 PM
South Bay Accent - Oct/Nov 2016
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