Modern Revival Black Sheep Brasserie serves refreshing updates on classic French fare. 98 South Bay Accent PHOTO COURTESY OF ANTHONY MARINO; MARINOPHOTOGRAPHY.COM REVIEW B y S u s a n H a t h a w a y lack sheep might be considered outcasts but there’s nothing disgraceful about the buzzy new dining spot of that name in the heart of Willow Glen. Opening late last year, Black Sheep Brasserie brings some classic Frenchness to town, but wrapped in modern sensibilities, from the chic food preparations to the decor. For example, snails here aren’t just the longtime Parisian iteration featuring garlic butter and herbs but rather are basil-fed crawlers steeped in Pernod butter. Meanwhile, the high-ceilinged space is modern and handsome with a muted gray-neutral color scheme enlivened with occasional pops of bright red. The ruminant mammal reflected in the restaurant’s name is the English translation of Le Mouton Noir, a former French dining spot in Saratoga launched back in the ‘70s by Don Durante, one of the new place’s four skilled partners. Joining him are young entrepreneurs Stephen Shelton, Jimmy Marino and Philippe Breneman, the food and drink gurus who own popular Lexington House in Los Gatos. When it comes to “brasserie,” the definition refers to a larger, casual, affordable spot serving classic French dishes. Alas, in a restaurant where each petite piece of baguette not quite large enough for two non-hungry people costs $4, affordability is relative. However, the baguette in question is from ManresaBread and is top notch. Happily, good ingredients and creative prep are the norm here, rolled out in cold starters, salads and soups, small “to-share” plates and entrees. Oysters are a mainstay in Parisian brasseries and two ever-changing varieties are available here with a pair of sauces. The kitchen does a nice job on duck liver mousse, a creamy, earthy mixture with that liver funkiness nicely complemented by a house-made pickle that could be green strawberries or something else. The biggest departure from classic Gallic cuisine is in the salads, like a green salad with shaved vegetables enrobed in green goddess dressing with tangy sheep cheese or salad Niçoise made with seared ahi rather than T h e D i s h o n H o t L o c a l E a t e r i e s
South Bay Accent - Oct/Nov 2016
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