Best in Show Palo Alto’s Bird Dog dishes epicurean pedigree in chic surroundings. 82 South Bay Accent COURTESY OF BIRD DOG REVIEW B y S u s a n H a t h a w a y Like the fungi that sprout after a rain, the South Bay’s thriving economy has procreated a swath of new restaurants in the last few years. One of the most sizzling, hands down, is Bird Dog in downtown Palo Alto, whose goal, according to chef/co-owner Robbie Wilson, is to deliver a high level of dining sophistication in the burbs. While some local restaurant owners might say they’re already doing that, what’s undeniable is that Bird Dog has been lobbing home runs in the reservations department since it opened in November. Good luck getting a table without planning well ahead. Wilson has quite a culinary pedigree. He trained under Michel Troisgros in France, whose three-star family is restaurant royalty. Along the way, he has worked with heavyweights like Thomas Keller, Nobu Matsuhisa and Tom Colicchio and has owned several of his own establishments, too. He was lured from a popular Santa Barbara wine country spot by a Silicon Valley venture capitalist power couple, who are investors. Wilson’s august background is distilled in exciting, uncommon dishes with a French- Asian-California bent that mostly deliver the goods. This dare-to-be-different mindset is seen in a smallish menu featuring some raw fish starters, lavish use of vegetables both raw and cooked, along with an eclectic team of main-dish proteins including aristocratic Wagyu beef and ubiquitous pork belly along with, ironically, fried chicken thigh. But it’s darn good. Notice is given from the outset that things will be different here as friendly servers deliver a warm, smoky, salty folded round of whole-grain roti – Indian unleavened bread – to each guest. The optimal next choice should be one of the raw fish choices. The only thing wrong with these crudo concoctions is their diminutive portions. The best of the current trio is tai snapper, paired with lime, chile, pecan and sesame oil. The textural and flavor combination makes for mouth rapture. Wilson brought just one dish with him from the Southland: wood-grilled avocado, one of those why-didn’t-I-think-ofthis, simple composites that deserves its must-order status. The creamy flesh, kiss of smoke, tangy ponzu sauce and fresh wasabi are a miraculous medley. T h e D i s h o n H o t L o c a l E a t e r i e s
South Bay Accent - Jun/Jul 2016
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