For those who have followed the arrow on the giant BBQ sign on the corner of California Blvd. and Industrial Way, the payoff has been a discovery that, more often than not, becomes a regular habit for those in search of true BBQ in Napa. Smoakville chef Jonathan Bodnar’s small, unassuming take-out shop in the former Café Lucy in an industrial park in north Napa, is quickly being discovered by many folks as Napa’s hidden mother lode of BBQ. And by “mother lode,” I mean it’s a hole-in-the-wall joint that not only drips with the authenticity of a BBQ hot spot, but also delivers a full array of goods from old-time sodas to a spectrum of BBQ accoutrements like homemade pickles and “dilly” beans (pickled green beans). Most important in that delivery, of course, are the BBQ goods themselves. Chef Bodnar, or “very tall chef ” as he’s locally known, smokes his meats using the wine-soaked barrel staves from some of the most famous wineries in the world, making Smoakville not only an original but also very “wine country.” He also sources his meats from small artisan farmers and ranchers to ensure that his products are the very best and freshest quality. And the results? From the St. Louis ribs, where the meat is tender and juicy, to the classic pulled pork, from the “Rib Dog” to the succulent brisket, each dish conveys the message that this is a kitchen that knows BBQ, both southern and Texas style. And if that full a menu isn’t enough, consider the enticing sides like mac & cheese and the famous Smoakville “corn casserole,” as well as an ever-changing selection of prepared foods, including jars of pickles, pepper jelly, relishes and more. About the only thing not southern are the baked beans, which are decidedly Boston-style, but yummy nonetheless. And finally, a last two words while talking Smoakville BBQ: Bacon Chop! Not always available since Bodnar needs to special order this cut from his supplier. But if you see it on the menu, don’t hesitate! The Bacon Chop is a ridiculously thick cut of pork belly still attached to the rib meat and bone. Bodnar first cures it, then sears it and finishes it off in the oven, smothered in his proprietary BBQ sauce. It’s a “porkivore’s” dream. Smoakville only serves takeout, and the service is quick, knowledgeable and friendly. Don’t know what chicharron is? Ask and they’ll grab you a sample when it’s on special that day – one taste and you’ll have a better understanding of the term “Bet ya can’t eat just one!” Not sure how smoking is or the origin of a particular dish? Ask and there’s a good chance chef Jon will come out to chat. And while waiting for your order amid the intoxicating aroma and vintage advertising on the walls, don’t forget to pack up one or two cups of the complimentary sauces and grab a wet nap or two (or three), because you are going to get messy and love it. What can be better that grabbing a quick mouth-watering lunch, or stopping by on the way home to pick up an honest-to-goodness, straight-from-the-south meal and enjoying it in the comfort of your own home? Many locals know it doesn’t get much better than that, since most who experience the BBQ at Smoakville become regulars—about 70% of Smoakville customers are “repeat offenders,” according to Bodnar. In this restaurant-happy valley, it’s a percentage that would make any restaurateur green with envy. And finally a “very tall chef ” bonus: as we head into the holidays, Smoakville will be offering complete holiday dinners to go that’ll feed from 4 to 16 (see web site for ordering dates). Stop stressing about what to feed the brood this year and let Jonathan and Smoakville take care of it. You’ll be glad you did. Great authentic BBQ, down a side street, nestled in an business park— it may not be as idyllic a location as many other Napa restaurants, but if flavor, value and food personality are your thing, then this is your spot. As Chef Jon says, “It’s the right food on the wrong side of the tracks.” Check out Smoakville at 1755 Industrial Way in north Napa, off California Blvd. near Trancas Street. Open Wednesday through Saturday, 12–3 for lunch, 4–8 for dinner. Coming soon is a full range of beer and wine to enjoy with your meal. For a menu visit smoakville.com and to order in advance call 707.363.3447. You need only follow the sign spinner’s directions one time, then you’re hooked. NOV E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3 69
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