A sister restaurant for ZuZu... the “secret” Olive Tree...gaucho chef in St. Helena...Clementine at Val’s Liquor...Mario Batali in the valley? JANUARY- F E B R UARY 2 0 1 5 69 by CHRIS BLANCHARD, MS Mick Salyer, the charming, debonair genius behind Zuzu, has now opened the magnificent Spanish tapas/sherry/wine bar/restaurant called La Taberna, three doors down from his original icon on Main Street. I will ask him the question we all want to know – how is this space different from Zuzu?? “Taberna is inspired by the Pinxtos bars of Northern Spain,” says Mick. “It’s a simpler and more contemporary version of Zuzu, with dishes priced between $3 and $8, to drop in for a drink or a nibble or stay for dinner and a bottle of wine.” As a testimonial, I have braved the suckling pig head served whole in a bowl. Taberna might have one available each night. Just one. Very hedonistic—it’s insane, and not for the weak-hearted. Or, for the less adventurous eaters, there’s a selection of beautiful fish crudo and some ridiculously toothsome empanadas. And check out that wine list. Where else can you find such a selection of great bottles of wine for under $40? H• • • • • ave you met Chris and his wife, Soultana, the owners of the Olive Tree Restaurant on the Silverado Trail near Soscol Avenue? Some people call this place “The Greek” or the “OT.” I sort of hate to let this place out of the bag, but it is pure genius. It’s a wonderful throwback to the 1970s, and super-comfortable, with Tadich Grill-style booths. The hipsters would surely take this place over if it were in San Francisco, but for now, fortunately, it is still undiscovered. This is what you need to know: Happy hour 3:00 – 6:00. A killer, dripping moist cheeseburger and fries for five bucks. Plump, delicious, Cajun pan-fried oysters at $8.95 for six!!! Big cocktails served ice cold for $5. Make sure to say hello to smiling Kimberly at the bar, who is certain to make you feel like a regular. Take your mom or dad, grandma or grandpa for lunch or dinner and check out old school favorites done perfectly, like Veal Saltimbocca, Chicken Piccata, and Liver and Onions. But keep this to yourself. I need my seat at the bar to remain available. • • • • • So I’ve been hearing that the insanely talented Master of the Seven Fires and gaucho grillman, Argentine chef Francis Mallmann, is very interested in lighting the fires in St. Helena soon. Talks are supposedly in the works to open a live fire restaurant up North, although local “open fire” laws may make this dream impossible. Let’s keep the fire burning! • • • • • One of my absolute favorite Napa Valley personalities is Clemente Cittoni, owner of Clemente’s Italian takeout inside Val’s Liquors on Third Street next to ABC Bakery. For those of us who know his food, you have to agree with me that Clemente makes some of the most soulful Italian food in the Bay Area, and all of this from the corner of a liquor store. If you don’t know about it, what are you waiting for? How about picking up a pint of the original Napa creation called Malfatti, Italian for “mistake,” the inside filling of ravioli rolled up in a ball, created at the old Depot Restaurant in the late 1920s by Theresa Tamburelli. Clemente started working at the Depot in 1961 and was trained by Theresa, who later sold him the restaurant. I will always remember him there, coming out into the dining room to greet customers and give out hugs in his sweaty sleeveless t-shirt. Go in soon and say hello and make sure to walk out with a few pints of Italian “soul food.” • • • • • Is it true that Mario Batali is close to locking up the deal on a Babbostyle Italian restaurant in Napa? Wow, that would be some interesting news! The Napa Valley is truly becoming a food mecca. I will find out more for you soon . . . Chris Blanchard, Master Sommelier, runs the wine programs at award winning restaurants in Los Angeles, San Francisco and the Napa Valley. He has also worked for over 25 years in the Napa Valley representing some of the top wineries, including Far Niente, Etude, Chappellet and Vine Hill Ranch, as well as launching some of the most coveted and successful brands in California.
NVLife_JanFeb_2015
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