October/November 2016 91 OLAF BECKMANN; OPPOSITE: COURTESY OF THE QUAIL & OLIVE recommendations about oil and vinegar pairings, with some home runs including basil olive oil and tangerine balsamic, garlic-infused oil with pomegranate balsamic and rosemary oil with cranberry pear balsamic. We Olive & Wine Bar in downtown Los Gatos isn’t just an EVOO and balsamic vinegar taproom; it’s also a thriving tapas spot. On the taproom side, this franchised operation showcases California grown oils along with all the usual tempting selections like flavored oils and vinegars (pineapple white balsamic, anyone?) that have made these tasting bars such a local hit. Among the California EVOOs, try the lovely Sonoma smoked olive oil to finish seafood or explore Frantoio EVOO with its grassy, herbaceous aromas or the fruitier, nutty Californiagrown arbequina EVOO. Also available is a selection of gourmet foods like tapenade, olives, dressings, unique spreads, jams, chocolate and caramel sauces, infused honeys, flavored salts and marinades. In addition, the store carries some small-production wines and the whole shebang is available for tasting. Those who can’t bear to leave can grab a table and munch on items such as prosciutto-wrapped dates and caprese salad, prepared using the delicious oils and vinegars carried in the shop. A pair of coast-side taprooms called True Olive Connection is helping home chefs jazz up their cooking. Located in Santa Cruz and Aptos, these petite shops are decked out in pleasing Provençal colors, which serve as a vibrant backdrop for tastings. As is common at such establishments, customer loyalty is encouraged through discounts for those who return their bottles for refills. EVOOs come from local and international groves, along with balsamic vinegars steeped in an enticing array of extracts, like Serrano honey, grapefruit and ripe peach. Along with bespoke oils and zesty vinegars, the stores carry nut and seed oils, olive-oil-based skin care products, jams, condiments and other enticements. Spice lovers will appreciate the sea salts infused with ghost peppers, habanero peppers, hot curry or a five-pepper blend. The staff provides helpful tips like adding a touch of flavored vinegar to water to zip it up, using these vinegars as pancake syrup, or sprinkling the butter-flavored EVOO on popcorn to avoid the cholesterol damage of fatty dairy products. Cute little Quail and Olive in Carmel Valley is focused on olive oil’s healthful aspects, since a retired cardiologist who promotes EVOO as a way to prevent heart disease owns the shop. A pareddown selection of the usual delightful oils and balsamics found in most taprooms is available, along with special composites of California-grown EVOOs like “doctor’s blend,” an oil that takes advantage of the naturally high polyphenol levels found in koroneiki and coratina olives (Greek and Italian varietals, respectively). With freshness a key element in deriving health and taste advantages from EVOO, Quail and Olive displays the harvest date and source of most oils sold. One of the most popular goodies is the kiwi-mint vinegar made from fruit and chilies grown on a local organic farm. Another winner is plum-basil reserve balsamic that combines Santa Rosa plums, opal basil and sweet Italian basil. FARMERS MARKET E VOOs Tastings are usually offered by vendors who sell their products at farmers markets, with the focus being on locally produced EVOOs and sometimes vinegars either sold directly by the olive growers themselves or by those who source from them. Unlike the taprooms, this is the place to find exclusively California olive oil—an outstanding product that is fresher, healthier and tastier than most of what’s available in supermarkets. A fixture at South Bay farmers markets is Big Paw, a producer of lush olive oils, vinegars, bread dippers and more that has many local fans. The proprietors, who get their EVOO from high-quality Northern California farms, whip up a slew of enticing blends like an addictive chipotle EVOO, “flaming fig” dressing and some killer vinegar concoctions such as wild matsutake mushroom champagne vinegar, apricot-lavender balsamic, hibiscus balsamic and smoked chipotle catsup. Made in the California olive heaven of the Capay Valley, northeast of San Francisco, Grumpy Goats is a boutique EVOO producer with an impressive array of awards for its varietal oils. Organically, sustainably farmed, the oils vary from mild, fruity, creamy pendolino EVOO to rich, forward picual EVOO with a complex, peppery aroma, and coratina EVOO, the most robust Round Pond Estate
South Bay Accent - Oct/Nov 2016
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