W H I L E O L I V E S , W H I C H O R I G I N A T E D I N T H E M E D I T E R R A N E A N R E G I O N , H A V E B E E N C U L T I V A T E D F O R O V E R 6 , 0 0 0 Y E A R S , E V O O TAP R O O M S A R E A M U C H N E W E R D E V E L O P M E N T. 88 South Bay Accent COURTESY OF B.R, COHN; PREVIOUS SPREAD: SHUTTERSTOCK First, some background. Olive oil might be high in monounsaturated fats and antioxidants but the growing spectrum of types, brands, grades and prices creates confusion. Within the three main olive oil grades—refined, pure and extra virgin—the latter comprises the vast majority of products, which isn’t surprising because it’s the most expensive. And that’s the problem. One UC Davis test determined that more than 70 percent of imported extra-virgin olive oils (EVOOs)—the kind littering our grocery shelves—were fakes rather than reflecting the “extra-virgin” requirements of being produced by mechanically crushing olives without using chemicals or refining techniques. Meanwhile, scandals in the Italian extra-virgin olive oil industry have revealed that many such products aren’t virgin, aren’t produced in Italy, nor in some cases even made from olives. These issues have more resonance when considering that at least 98 percent of the olive oil consumed in the United States is imported. Jeff Martin, co-proprietor of Frantoio Grove in South Santa Clara County, explains that “Americans use less than a liter per person per year; Italians use 13 liters.” Given the awards for quality Martin’s EVOOs have won, it’s not surprising that he believes “America needs to reduce its dependence on foreign oil,” so to speak. The good news is that California’s olive oil industry has been breaking production records of late, and now produces the majority of the nation’s EVOO. Our Mediterranean climate and longtime farming prowess are inherently olive-oil friendly, helping churn out four million gallons of EVOO last year. With more choices than ever before, it’s important to know that outstanding domestic EVOOs without the taint of scandal are not only much better than most imported offerings but there are new, delicious ways of sampling and learning about these fine olive oils. Perhaps the easiest strategy for exploring EVOOs is visiting one of the “taprooms” in the South Bay where visitors sip through many different oils along with lush balsamic vinegars— an exquisite mate to these oils. In fact, a common practice in local taprooms is swirling together complementary pairings of oil and vinegar—creating an instant tiny vinaigrette—to please and inspire customers. These establishments also supply tips, recipes and other assistance so buyers learn about all the ways to use these fine products beyond mere salad dressing concoctions. Since proprietors often buy their oils and vinegars from a few wellstocked distributors that serve the burgeoning taproom market, one will recognize many of the same products at different locations. However, the quality is high and the selection so varied that there’s plenty to choose from. Another newer development is encountering regionally produced EVOOs at local farmers markets, where tastings are typical. Finally, a particularly enjoyable and educational approach for sampling and buying EVOOs is an oil-tasting safari, visiting one of the olive mills that welcome visitors to their groves for sipping and buying. Products offered by most of the following sources can also be purchased online, so check their websites for details. B.R. Cohn
South Bay Accent - Oct/Nov 2016
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