Nosh at Naschmarkt Chef Matthias Froeschl puts “Austrian” on the table at upscale Campbell eatery. 92 South Bay Accent REVIEW B y S u s a n H a t h a w a y Austrian fare isn’t one of the first cuisines that come to mind when most South Bay diners are deciding where they want to eat. Or more accurately, they don’t think of it at all. Italian, Chinese, Mexican—these cuisines are well represented and beloved in our region but all the heavy meats and gravies that typify the vittles of the old Austro- Hungarian Empire rarely get a nod. However, Austrian-born chef Matthias Froeschl has made believers out of virtually everyone who’s dined at Naschmarkt, his 4-year-old restaurant in downtown Campbell. Owned with his American wife and inlaws, Naschmarkt is proudly “new Austrian,” in that it was named for Vienna’s famous produce market and channels that country’s heavy cuisine through a fresh, lightened up sensibility. This is hardly diet food but Froeschl—who started his culinary career at age 15—uses his training and skills to present a California style of Austrian cuisine that yodels on the plate. It also helps that portions aren’t huge. The Froeschls were initially unsure if their different-drummer eatery would resonate with local diners. They need not have worried, with reservations now a must for this kleines restaurant (it seats just 50), open only for dinner and featuring simple, modern decor and an appealing little patio. If guests spoke Froeschl’s mother tongue, their response to his cooking would undoubtedly be Fabelhaft! (fabulous). This certainly applies to irresistible starters like juicy, smoky pork bratwurst perfectly paired with braised sauerkraut, caramelized onions and mustard (some guests come in after dinner just for a brat fix) and the otherworldly quark spätzle—eggy, tender, free-form noodles tossed with smoked chicken, a whisper of cream, mushrooms, crunchy corn, Brussels sprout leaves and tarragon—a brilliant dish and house favorite. Soups and salads are contemporary and wonderful, like a divine, creamy sunchoke and leek soup texturized with chunks of smoked trout and exciting salads driven by the seasons. Goat-cheese-stuffed “purses” adorn baby spinach, which is perfectly complemented by toasted walnuts, rosemary and a balsamic reduction. Seasonal fruit, such as strawberries or figs, garnishes this gem. T h e D i s h o n H o t L o c a l E a t e r i e s PHOTO COURTESY OF NASCHMARKT
South Bay Accent - Oct/Nov 2015
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