BANTAM Owner/chef Benjamin Sims once presided over Chez Panisse Cafe’s pizza oven and got the itch. He does the Berkeley restaurant proud with thin-crust pies carrying divine toppings but doesn’t stop there. His starters, sides and few main dishes are first rate, showcasing pristine ingredients, like crispy sunchokes with burrata, mustard greens and pistachio pesto. The California cuisine mentality shows in attractions like avocado toast with preserved lemon and sesame or an arugula salad with shaved zucchini, colombine and almonds. And, 90 South Bay Accent yes, the pizzas are great, with toppings like nettles, oyster mushrooms, chile and farmstead cheddar. The modern, expansive space sets just the right tone for this up-to-the-minute cuisine. Once a gym, it’s now warmly industrial, softened by the addition of distressed wood. Spots at the bar or at the high counter by the window are highly prized. Like other new eateries in town that have cracked the success code in a difficult business, Bantam delivers moderate prices in a casual environment. 1010 FAIR AVE., SANTA CRUZ, 831/420- 0101; BANTAM1010.COM Stinging nettles, oyster mushrooms, fiscalini cheddar and Calabrian chili top off a Bantam pizza.
South Bay Accent - Feb/Mar 2015
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