CONSIDER A PAINTERLY COMBO OF COLORFUL BEETS, DAMSON PLUMS AND PISTACHIOS ON A SNOWY PLATE. 86 South Bay Accent O’MEI The spicy, house-made red oil dumplings and multidimensional gan pung chicken are among many reasons why this upscale Sichuan restaurant hidden inside a nondescript strip mall has been a local favorite for more than 35 years. Inside, it’s large and sparely elegant. There’s more than the same old Chinese dishes here, and ingredients are fresh and authentic. For example, the pancakes for the mushu dishes are made in-house, and equal care is taken in all the menu choices. Among many unique items are addictive sesame candied cashews, fiery cured and smoked chicken with corn kernels and black date and sweet potato tofu. Most unusual are Western desserts like housemade sorbets and indulgences like chocolate peanut butter pie. The longtime owner, Roger Grigsby, once studied Chinese at UC Santa Cruz and is serious about authenticity. 2316 MISSION ST., SANTA CRUZ, 831/425- 8458; OMEICHOW.COM OSWALD Satisfying but not leading edge, the food at this 20-year-old establishment— which relocated earlier in its history—focuses on big, exciting flavors in popular dishes like abalone with bacon and rack of lamb with blue cheesebrioche bread pudding. The lush chocolate souffle is locally famous. A popular cocktail menu offers hits such as a cucumber martini and “Cosmojito.” Some patrons opt to dine at the convivial bar, which serves an edited version of the regular menu. Named for a character from Roald Dahl—an author of inventive children’s books—Oswald is hip and modern but not haughty, usually attracting a slightly older crowd. The biggest complaint is the noise level, but the restaurant’s many fans don’t seem to be put off by this. Insiders looking for a good deal head in on Wednesdays for the $29 fixed-price dinner. 121 SOQUEL AVE., SANTA CRUZ, 831/423-7427; OSWALDRESTAURANT.COM Chilean sea bass nestles with frisee, beet chips and winter squash at Oswald. O'Mei’s Yuxiang prawns swim with Chinese eggplant in a sweet-tart garlicchili ginger sauce.
South Bay Accent - Feb/Mar 2015
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