PHO WAGON
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THE ULTIMATE GUIDE
TO OUTSTANDING RESTAURANTS
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December 2017/January 2018 93
Moving into the signature dish category
are Parmesan fries, thick, crusty
beauties with herbs, cheese topping and
two dippers—truffle aioli and a perfectly
poached egg, whose yolk is delightfully
indulgent with the fries. Just be sure to
keep scooping up the yolk while it’s still
warm and runny.
Sophistication is at work in the generous
list of additional small plates, such
as lovely hamachi paired with avocado
mousse, grapefruit and pistachio or tasty
beets whose earthy sweetness is enhanced
by beet-top marmalade, nectarine and
pungent blue cheese. Always very popular
are roasted Brussels sprouts, which
are deliciously prepared with red wine
vinegar, capers and cheese and plenty of
oil to create that irresistible soft-center,
edge-charred perfection.
Besides ubiquitous choices like roasted
bone marrow, foie gras and New York
steak, the in-vogue menu has popular
main-course items like nicely executed
seared scallops on a just-right lemon
risotto, expertly cooked salmon fillet
accompanied by gnocchi with more of
that truffle oil, and delicious, crispy-skin
duck breast with too-salty duck confit
and vegetables.
Desserts are revamped frequently, but
pray that the dark chocolate terrine with
fruit, hazelnuts and smoked ice cream
sticks around. Also palate pleasing is
salted butterscotch brûlée with whipped
cream and berries, although some patrons
still yearn for earlier standouts like fried
apple pie with crème fraîche ice cream and
some respectable cobblers.
Roots & Rye is a hit with its youthful
clientele, whose bargain-hunting
contingent flocks to happy hour with
its $6 snacks. And most patrons groove
to the dim lighting, blasting music and
top-shelf drinks while being taken care
of by a friendly crew of servers who are
occasionally too busy to quickly deliver
dishes. No worries, just have another
outstanding cocktail.
ROOTS & RYE, 3055 Olin Ave., San Jose (Santana
Row); 408/429-2909. rootsandrye.com
HOURS: Sunday–Tuesday, 11a.m.–10 p.m.;
Wednesday, 11a.m.–11 p.m.; Thursday–Saturday,
11a.m.–midnight. Reservations recommended.
PRICES: Snacks/starters: $8–27. Dinners:
$16–38. Dessert: $12. n
Vietnamese Cuisine with a Contemporary Twist
LUNCH AND DINNER
1712 MERIDIAN AVE., SAN JOSE 408.440.0105 PHOWAGON.COM
408.244.5100