21st Century
Bar Bites
92 South Bay Accent
REVIEW B y S u s a n H a t h a w a y
Historically, bars have
been dimly lit places
dedicated to the flow
of booze while offering
minimal, forgettable
edibles. In our modern era with its
relentless reinvention of food and drink,
distilled spirits have been overhauled and
up-leveled, with fine whiskeys having
become particularly trendy. But no selfrespecting
proprietor would serve stale
pretzels and petrified popcorn, so the bar
food accompanying high-end hooch is
often a draw all on its own these days.
Roots & Rye in Santana Row nicely
synthesizes the latest fashions in barswith
food, delighting its mostly younger
patrons with its noisy, energetic vibe,
solid cocktails and tasty comestibles.
It’s the creation of Chris
Yeo, long known for his popular
Asian spots Straits and Sino,
but Roots & Rye has an international
menu leaning toward
comfort food. A long lineup of
booze-friendly snacks is just the
start of its offerings, which also
include a generous assortment
of dinner plates and even dessert
—although ordering an upscale
sweetish cocktail at meal’s end
isn’t a bad idea, either.
Hidden away in the tony
shopping center, Roots & Rye is
large inside and features an indemand
patio with two comfy
fire pits—perfect spots for winter
imbibing—and lots of plush
tufted leather banquettes and
ottomans that keep behinds
happily seated. The overall look
is modern and open with a
unique design theme of wooden
framing standing in for walls,
and an airy, construction-project ceiling
done in industrial chic.
In some ways, the menu has also been
under construction, with frequent overhauls
as various executive chefs have come
and gone since the opening in late 2015.
Nevertheless, a few items have been such
hits that they’ve stuck around, like the
wonderfully creamy deviled eggs in which
the yolk gets a truffle oil kick and crunch
from skinny radish slices, replacing the
pickled jalapeño of an earlier iteration.
The burger remains a standout, super
juicy, large and amped up with white
cheddar, caramelized onions and apple
bacon jam. True sybarites can add foie
gras and/or bone marrow to take it well
over the top.
T h e D i s h o n H o t L o c a l E a t e r i e s
COURTESY OF ROOTS & RYE
Super cocktails and comfort
food at Roots & Rye