Eclectic Taste 92 South Bay Accent KIM LENNAN REVIEW B y S u s a n H a t h a w a y South Bay diners are increasingly gravitating toward a modern, kick-back style of restaurant in which the vibe is casual but the food is fresh and inventive while still being moderately priced, as seen in newer outposts like Orchard City Kitchen, The Table and 31st Union. Such spots will likely offer exciting craft cocktails and have a staff of never-obsequious young servers. Often not taking reservations, these popular boîtes are noisy, friendly and packed full of happy, jeans-clad diners who don’t mind the long waits and the purposeful decibels. Checking all these boxes and more is crowd-pleasing Lexington House in Los Gatos, a two-year-old establishment that takes the concept of a fashionable watering hole to a new level via the exciting, produce-centric cuisine of Silicon Valley-raised Philippe Breneman. Unless your favorite dining hour is super early or super late, getting a seat is a lengthy affair due to the popularity of “the Lex,” as the owners call it. Most patrons grab a spot on the diminutive patio in front (if they can) and while they wait, savor one of the house’s fantastic cocktails, featuring small-batch spirits and fine ingredients. Drinksonly visitors try to snag a stool at the handsome bar along one side of the open-plan interior, which is backed by a massive, brick-faced window showing off colorful bottles of booze. A little sliver of a bar-restaurant, the Lex could easily fill itself up if it were twice the size but Breneman’s food is so superb that the waits are worth it. His petite, ever-changing menu chases the seasons, which pains the many visitors who fall in love with many dishes of the day. Just deal with it; this is the place to be adventurous. This focus on small bites of new things—portions aren’t huge here—is perfectly demonstrated in the addictive house-made breads, which come just one piece per person. Naturally, there have been many howls over that strategy among the carb obsessed. Kalamata olive pain d’epi, bacon and chive biscuits, killer brioche, green onion popovers—the bread offerings keep changing, deliciously so. There are many new flavor experiences to enjoy here, such as a recent starter like tomato salad that takes the norm into new Chef Breneman creates seasonal small plates with a modern flair at “The Lex”
South Bay Accent - Dec 2015/Jan 2016
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