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South Bay Accent - DecJan 2016

DJ17_CooperGarrod_BBF.indd 2 eessttBBiitteess11/4/16 1:29 PM THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO OUTSTANDING RESTAURANTS IInndduullggee iinn OOuurr MMeennuu ooff AAddvveerrttiissiinngg PPoossssiibbiilliittiieess December 2016/January 2017 93 pleasingly crabby crab cake or charred Spanish octopus with burnt onions and shishito peppers. Charred octopus and a couple of other choices are reruns from Stump’s earlier career, like his johnny cakes with butter-poached lobster, mascarpone and caviar—a standout main course from long-shuttered fine-dining spot, A.P. Stump’s. Mains vary but usually include delicate steelhead with creamy grits, succotash and exotic kaffir lime or satisfying plump scallops whose richness goes well with nutty farro, lobster jus and kale shreds. The aforementioned pork chop is super-juicy and nicely paired with white beans, bacon and braised greens. Less successful are pasta dishes such as a muddle of overcooked pappardelle with hard-to-taste braised lamb and radicchio without much bite. Desserts are well worth ordering, particularly the divinely warm, lovely textured ricotta beignets drizzled with caramel. Cobblers show up regularly and are everything this dessert should be: not overly sweet with hot baked fruit and ice cream on the side. Occupying a former Hawg’s in a small shopping center, Forthright isn’t in the sizzling Campbell foodie area but is nonetheless attractively modern, with concrete floor, soaring gray walls, marble bar around the inside and a spacious heated patio in front. Consider the latter if an energetic noise level isn’t your thing. Stump has learned a few things during his 30-plus years in the restaurant business, so the servers here are trained to please, just like the cuisine. The young staff is attentive and friendly without being intrusive and will happily guide guests through the voluptuous oyster assortment. The only thing better would be having 1930s pricing for the thencopious bivalve, when diners could slurp all night for a few cents. FORTHRIGHT OYSTER BAR & KITCHEN, 1700 W. Campbell Ave., Campbell. (408) 628-0683. eatoystersatforthright.com HOURS: Monday—Thursday, 4—10; Friday—Saturday, 11—11; Sunday, 11:30—9:30. Reservations strongly recommended. PRICES: Starters: $6—13. Small plates: $7—16. Entrees: $14—25. Desserts: $6. n 408.244.5100


South Bay Accent - DecJan 2016
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