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South Bay Accent - Aug/Sep 2015

EVERY FINE-DINING CHEF IS A FRENCH CHEF. THERE MAY BE DIFFERENT INFLUENCES, BUT IT’S ALL FRENCH FOOD. EVEN CLAM CHOWDER IS A VELOUTÉ. MAC AND CHEESE IS BÉCHAMEL. AND SO ON. August/September 2015 87 Casual French Dining LEFT BANK PEOPLE WATCHING WHILE sitting in at a bustling brasserie is a check-off item for anyone visiting Paris. San Francisco white-tablecloth chef Roland Passot decided to duplicate this concept at his currently three Left Banks, which might be a mini-chain but does a decent job of capturing the Parisian magic without busting le wallet. Between the two South Bay locations, Santana Row is larger and better looking than the Menlo Park version, but the menu is much the same at both. Guests say that the slow service adds to the French authenticity. ➺ LE BUZZ The energetic, noisy environment is like a real Parisian brasserie while the outdoor tables also add to the gestalt. ➺ PLAT DU JOUR The classic menu runs to oysters, escargot, French onion soup, roast chicken and the like, but both locations feature French regional dishes, wines and cheeses. Menlo Park, 650/473-6543; Santana Row, 408/984-3500; www.leftbank.com Casual French Dining CAFE BRIOCHE AROUND SINCE THE ’90s, this neighborhood gem helped bring French bistro food to Palo Alto’s second downtown and has even withstood recent direct competition next door from Pastis. Cafe Brioche is cuter, with buttery faux walls and the obligatory huge French posters, with colorful Provençal fabrics covering tables. Prices aren’t too different between the two spots while Cafe Brioche occasionally adds a soupçon of California to the classic menu, such as hazelnutcrusted salmon with merlot-blackberry coulis. ➺ LE BUZZ This charming French bistro seems to always be open, from breakfast to dinner, with swarms of patrons keen on Sunday brunch, when the menu is enormous. ➺ PLAT DU JOUR The menu is classically French—cassoulet, boeuf Bourguignon, steak frites, bouillabaisse, coq au vin and the like. For a rich mouthful, try the fritters filled with artichoke hearts, shallots, herbs and goat cheese. 445 California Ave., Palo Alto; 650/326-8640; cafebrioche-paloalto.com The Poulet Rotisserie is a Rocky Jr. natural roasted half chicken with french fries and mixed greens. This Salade Napoleon features layers of roasted beets, goat cheese and candied pecans surrounded by lemon oil.


South Bay Accent - Aug/Sep 2015
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