oh là là! You don’t need a ticket to PARIS to experience the delights of FRENCH CUISINE. BY SUSAN HATHAWAY | PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS SCHMAUCH HIGH-END DINING typically has a French accent. Peruse the stars bestowed by the Michelin folks, and it’s clear that the majority of top chefs cook with the rigor and refinement found in French cuisine, even if their menus don’t have “French” written anywhere. The mouthwatering reality of a lovely piece of protein enhanced by a luscious sauce—the essence of this cuisine—has appeal whether in a formal, white-tablecloth dining room or a casual neighborhood bistro. It’s easy to understand why eaters enjoy such cooking: “French food is very, very delicious,” explains chef Scott Cooper of Le Papillon in San Jose. ¶ Indeed. So what’s the current state of French dining in the South Bay, given the fact that a surging local economy is producing a slew of new eateries of all kinds across the region? Our best guides are some of the talented chefs who serve French or French-inspired food to happy Silicon Valley diners and closely track dining trends as a part of doing business. Below, they explain how foodies and everyday eaters are currently responding to this venerable cuisine and what we might see in the future when it comes to French dining options. ¶ One dose of cold water for all these savvy chefs is the belief a few years back—that is, when residents and local companies had less money to throw around—that French food in the Bay Area might have become (zut alors!) passé given the dearth of new restaurant openings compared to other kinds of cuisine. While Italian eateries, Asian cafes, sushi joints, pizzerias and other such dining options seemed to be their own growth industry, one just didn’t see lots of new French spots appearing. ¶ Thankfully, things have changed in the last few years, spearheaded by a minirenaissance of French bistros in major cities including Los Angeles and New York that boast well-heeled diners seeking the newest thing—even if it’s an old thing. Our San Francisco neighbor has been leading the charge, with renowned chefs opening casual boîtes such as Monsieur Benjamin, Urchin Bistrot, Les Clos and Sous Beurre to great acclaim. ¶ As Cooper explains it, “French food is becoming more popular. It seemed like 10 years ago, every restaurant that opened was Italian inspired.” Only the most die-hard pasta lover wouldn’t admit that the South Bay saw an overabundance of such eateries open (and many also closed) in recent years. Now diners are rediscovering French cooking, Cooper believes. » August/September 2015 83
South Bay Accent - Aug/Sep 2015
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