August/September 2014 85 OLD-WORLD ORIGINAL LE PAPILLON 410 Saratoga Ave., San Jose, 408/296-3730, www.lepapillon.com SUMMER MAINS So deft is the hand of chef Scott Cooper that you’ll be tempted to eat even meat-based entrees on a summer night because of how enticing and non-heavy they sound on the menu. One good hot-weather meat choice is Cooper’s deer medallions—the lightest meat around— paired with huckleberries. Or try grilled swordfish in a vaporous soy-verjus reduction. Or just say the heck with it and order his sturgeon Wellington with wild mushrooms—at least the rich pastry is wrapped around fish, right? STANDOUT STARTERS As befits a modern French restaurant, Cooper presents multi-item starters in which the individual pieces all complement one another and look ravishing. Case in point: roasted asparagus with an asparagus custard flavored with preserved citrus. Go raw and light with luscious truffled hamachi mated with avocado and drizzled with lemon and pea-shoot emulsion. Cooper even lightens up lobster, slow-poaching the meat and serving it with lemongrass, basil and tangy tamarind gel. VEGGIES STAR You’ll be tempted to make your three- or four-course meal entirely out of soups and salads given the creativity of Cooper’s menu. Try the sugar-snap pea soup with roasted shitake mushrooms. Salads are divine, like shaved fresh hearts of palm with grapefruit, avocado and macadamia nuts or roasted beets with dates and pistachios in sherry vinegar gelée. GRAND FINALES As a French restaurant that’s been around since 1977, Le Papillon has its traditions—such as Grand Marnier soufflé. But summer dining calls for lighter fare, like whispery fresh berries in almond cookie cup with Grand Marnier cream. Berries show up again as an accompaniment to exotic white chocolate-passion fruit frozen mousse. Or experience strawberry vacherin in which the creamy filling is touched with mascarpone, marzipan and lemon balm. IMPRESSIONS The restaurant is very high-end French in that it’s a quiet oasis devoted to Old World elegance and attention to all details. You’ll never realize that Le Papillon is located on a high-traffic San Jose street as thoroughly professional servers pamper you without being obsequious. It’s relaxing to get away from the intrusive noise levels that often define other restaurants. SPICED ORIGINALITY RASAM’S 193 S. Murphy Ave., Sunnyvale, 408/245-8500, www.rasams.com COOLING HEAT Like Mexico, the Indian subcontinent deals with fiery weather through spicy cuisine. But this newer establishment in the historic Murphy Avenue district is miles beyond the usual Indian eatery. Pairing local ingredients with recipes from all across India, the chef sometimes goes to the precipice of searing and backs off a bit. Good summer entrees include salmon in a complex Kadai spice blend with vegetables and a flavorful nut-based curry featuring seasonal veggies. UNIQUE MENU While other Indian eateries break down their menus in the usual protein-focused way, Rasam’s takes an entirely different approach, displaying earlier courses based on how they’re prepared: wok, griddle, barbecued or clay oven. There’s also a section for street food, soups and salads and sides. A must-try is the magnificent chaat sampler, a lovely presentation of different breads—the clementine-juice-flavored hollow bread filled with vegetables is unbelievable—and accompaniments like flavored yogurt, avocado and corn salsa. Or munch on a cooling wrap with shredded tandoori chicken, cucumber, mint and chutney inside. LE PAPILLON Sturgeon “Wellington” with chanterelles, red wine miso and potato mille-feuille VEGGIES STAR The menu has a wealth of produce-focused choices that are great for summer dining. Try the sprout salad tossed with orange, grenadine, balsamic vinegar, truffle oil and spices. Or slurp up a lovely soup of tomato, ginger, fennel, cream and basil. The other breads are divine, such as wonderful thyme and olive naan and mushroom-flavored kulcha, a satisfying soft bread. GRAND FINALES Normally, India isn’t on the list of great dessert producers, but there are some enticing choices here. Best is Mishti Doi, in which yogurt is blended with saffron, cream and flavorings and baked, then topped with berry coulis. The flavor contrasts and textures are memorable. Or try the pistachio-infused clotted cream that is like a luscious frozen dessert. BAR FLY While the 120-seat restaurant is one of the region’s best sources of terrific Indian cuisine, it offers an adjacent 20-seat lounge that brings modern Indian sensibilities and good ingredients to the cocktail menu. A perfect summer sipper blends gin, basil and lime in a delightfully cooling presentation. Or try the delicious raspberry tartini. The creative Old Fashioned here starts with Amrut whiskey and adds masala spices to the blend.
South Bay Accent - Aug/Sep 2014
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