A CANINE’S GUIDE TO CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA August/September 2014 71 CHRISTINA RILEY “IN MY NEXT LIFE, I want to live in Carmel and come back as a dog!” exclaims Michael Merritt, owner of Twigery, a downtown floral design studio. Truly, man’s best friend is not only warmly welcomed nearly everywhere in Carmel-by-the-Sea, he is also pampered to the nines. In this town of less than 4,000 residents, some estimate that more than half the population owns a pooch or two. So when did Carmel go bonkers over barkers? Hard to say. However, in the 1980s when actress Doris Day opened the Cypress Inn with partner Denny LeVett, the two decided to promote the historic lodge as a pet-friendly property. Back then, the idea of welcoming animals at a posh hotel was unthinkable. And yet, Day’s audacious vision set the stage for other hotels in the nation to follow suit. Now more than 40 years later, Carmelby the-Sea has established itself as the dogfriendliest town in America, attracting animal lovers from around the world. Owners are thrilled to share a fine dining, shopping and upscale lodging experience with their pets. Says City Councilwoman Carrie Theis, “Big or small, we don’t discriminate!” To accommodate a dog’s every need, the town offers a pet therapist who will figure out what is causing Fido to be stressed or depressed. There’s also an artist who will paint his portrait. Even the local paper, the Carmel Pine Cone, features a standing feature profiling a four-legged resident each week. Theis owns the Hofsas House Hotel, where the doggie package includes a collapsible bowl, pet shampoo, fur freshener and a Frisbee. Other inns feature dog washing stations. More than half of the town’s 45 inns allow animals in the rooms, not to mention the 75 rental homes on VRBO.com. In Carmel-by-the Sea, anything you can do, Spot can do, and that includes getting a spa treatment at Grooming by-the-Sea. And when it’s time to get a bite to eat, canines are customers, too. At the Forge in the Forest, the restaurant’s Dog Pound patio allows animal friends to mingle as their masters decide what to order off the pet menu. The Quarter Hounder, we’re told, is a pretty popular item. At the elegant Cypress Inn, waiters set down a water bowl and recite food options: doggie grilled chicken or beef burger. As for activities, Carmel-by-the-Sea is one of few places where you can take Rover off his leash to frolic on the white sands of Carmel Beach; the city offers clean-up bags in receptacles along the beach. There are also many stores that cater to owners shopping for their pets. The haute Diggidy Dog boutique, selling bushels of different treats, also features an astounding array of clothing and accessories, including cubic zirconium collars, fluffy ballet skirts, bandanna scarves, black top hats for fancy occasions and, of course, “I Heart Carmel” T-shirts. And then, there’s the practical stuff: lavender shampoo, talking toys, ceramic biscuit jars and doggie strollers that resemble baby strollers in a multitude of fabrics and colors. Most people boutiques, wine tasting rooms and art galleries are Fido friendly, and outdoor water bowls in front of shop doors are a common sight. At Galante Vineyards’ tasting room, pourers commonly pass a handful of kibble to pet owners stopping in for a taste, as both people and animals admire the vibrant dog paintings from the wellknown adjacent Rodrigue Art Gallery. And the heart of Carmel-by-the-Sea is big enough for other species as well. At Terry’s Restaurant and Lounge, food server Andrea Strano says, “My dog won’t hesitate to come in and sit on one of the barstools at the bar. I’ve seen customers come in with birds, cats, rabbits, even ponies.” plush booths greet you at this cafe, where you can order up such treats as smoked mussels with grilled crusty bread. The eatery’s new patio bustles with live music on weekends. 2 P.M. Art gallery hopping and wine tasting are on our itinerary for the next few hours. Feast your eyes upon larger-thanlife sculptures of acrobats and dancers from Cirque du Soleil at the Richard Mac- Donald/Dawson Cole Fine Art Gallery. And at the Carmel Art Association Gallery, find affordable paintings and sculptures from local artists. Pay a visit to Trio Carmel, a place where you can view fine art as well as taste Monterey County wines, olive oils and balsamic vinegars. And stop in at The Cheese Shop, where you can sample wines from all over the world while pairing them with cheeses from around the globe. This unique place sells an eye-popping array of goat, sheep and cow cheese, both hard and soft, and every combination in between. Here is where you can pull out your wine passport to sip reds and whites from downtown tasting rooms operated by Dawn’s Dream, Scheid Vineyards, Wrath Wines, Silvestri Vineyards and more. 5 P.M. You’ll need some food after wine tasting, so plan an early dinner at Casanova, a feast for the eyes and the palate. The French-inspired farm cottage has been restored and festooned with fairy lights and flowers throughout. Upstairs is a private room featuring the original dining table where Vincent Van Gogh enjoyed meals in France. A bicycle leaning against the fence and old world tile mosaics add ambience for epicurean treats like homemade papadarelle pasta and oven-roasted rack of lamb. 7 P.M. Catch the sun dipping into the horizon while sipping a handcrafted cocktail in the Sunset Lounge at the iconic Hyatt Carmel Highlands hotel. The drive above the village is worth its, and takes less than 15 minutes. Floor-to-ceiling windows show spectacular views of the vast Pacific and of dense forests and rock formations off the Point Lobos State Reserve coast. You may just want to stay there all night. Cypress Inn
South Bay Accent - Aug/Sep 2014
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