ENLIGHTENED MENU OF HEAVENLY DISHES REVIEW B y S u s a n H a t h a w a y HELPS PALO ALTO GRILL TAKE MODERN STEAKHOUSE TO NEW HEIGHTS 82 South Bay Accent A steakhouse patron from the ’70s transported via time machine to a modern-day equivalent would barely recognize the place except for the masculine, clubby atmosphere. Back when Watergate and pet rocks made their debuts, these temples of beef mainly featured mediocre grilled steaks, a salad bar and baked spuds with trimmings. Today, at stellar beef specialists like Palo Alto Grill, even vegetarians will find epic comestibles. In fact, chef Ryan Shelton’s cuisine is so modern, inventive and euphoric that it easily holds its own against non-steakhouse high-end restaurants in the region. This isn’t a big surprise given Shelton’s previous gigs as chef de cuisine at local Michelin two-star Baumé and executive chef at—sadly—short-lived Le Cigare Volant in Santa Cruz. Opened in April 2013, the Grill replaced—after a thorough overhaul—the former Miyake sushi spot, a noisy fave of 20-somethings seeking a sake buzz. The only buzz these days is among foodies who are discovering Shelton’s large, alluring menu. Start with exciting salads, raw dishes and killer small plates, segue into serious, dry-aged steaks, divine non-steak entrees and a handful of Croation dishes (a holdover from nearby, now-closed Lavanda, whose Croation owner opened Palo Alto Grill), then complete the delicious circle with subtle, wonderful desserts. Shelton adds creative touches to classics like chopped salad—rows of colorful ingredients mixed tableside— and Caesar, with wedges of romaine swaddled by a lush green goddess dressing. But the biggest wow factor shows up in intricate offerings such as his “Autumn Salad of Raked Leaves” featuring dehydrated vegetables resembling leaves topping a melange of lettuce, butternut squash, pear and pomegranate seeds in an airy vinaigrette. Or a beet salad dusted with powdered goat cheese to resemble a snow bank. Or a fresh, piquant ceviche encased in a frozen shell made from coconut milk. There are so many beguiling early courses, including some amazing side dishes like much-ordered fried Brussels sprouts steeped in apple juice and brown sugar, that a memorable meal actually can go no further. But this report would be remiss in skipping over the rest of the menu, particularly the cow items that define this cutting-edge steakhouse. Shelton changes up his treatments frequently but fine cuts such as strip loin, rib-eye and filet mignon make appearances, along with a less costly, less enormous offering like flat-iron steak or hanger steak that come with some of the most remark- PHOTO COURTESY OF PALO ALTO GRILL T h e D i s h o n H o t L o c a l E a t e r i e s
South Bay Accent - Apr/May 2014
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