Next we drive north to hilly Alexander Valley to meet with Ames Morison, winemaker and co-owner of Medlock Ames Winery. I like vintners who wear “Reliable American Farmer” belt buckles and discuss the ecological aspects of a winery rather than their fancy awards. The tasting room, a converted biker bar, overlooks an expansive garden which doubles as an environmental preserve. Morison serves up complex Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon from their organic vineyard set on rural Bell Mountain. As we head to Healdsburg, Sawyer notes that Sonoma restaurateurs tend to be approachable. He introduces me to Duskie Estes at the Davis Family Vineyards Tasting Room on the Russian River. Estes is the chef and co-owner of award-winning Zazu Kitchen and Farm, which recently relocated from Santa Rosa to Petaluma. She opens Zazu on the River, aka the “Pork Shack,” outside the Davis Family tasting room on summertime dates posted in Facebook and email alerts. The ‘U-Pick BLT’ is unique, says Estes. “You choose your own tomato from the garden we farm on the Davis property—a true ‘winery to table’ experience.” As we taste through the Davis wines, Sawyer highlights the subtlety of their Syrah and Pinot Noir. We drive a few blocks into downtown Healdsburg to Mateo’s Cocina Latina. Mateo Granados left behind his fancy pedigree in San Francisco and nearby Dry Creek Kitchen to cater with his pop-up mobile kitchen. In 2011 he opened Mateo’s with its light-filled dining room, patio and tequila bar to serve creative Latin food with classic technique. On the restaurant’s exterior wall is the phrase “Ingredientes Locales.” The Yucatán-born chef is obsessed with Sonoma products. Peppers from his nearby 3,000-vine garden spark his food and beverages such as the Caliente cocktail with jalapeños, radishes and herbs. Granados sources wheat, produce, pigs and more from Preston Winery in Dry Creek. As Sawyer and I sip our Caliente drinks, we dip house-made pumpkin seed crackers into Granados’ salsas. We then nosh on savory empanadas filled with chef ’s lamb chorizo on a tomato-vanilla sauce. Next stop: Russian River region’s Benovia Vineyards, with its living room-style tasting area and bucolic picnic patio. The Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from La Pommeraie vineyard, named for its apple orchard roots, are classic expressions of the region’s balanced wines. Nearby Inman Family Winery nestles amidst an organic vineyard. Inman and her husband chose wine growing after high-powered careers in the U.K. With a strong preference for Pinot Noir, Inman chose to establish her wine roots in the Russian River area. She likes being a family farmer. “I’m the forklift driver, the farmer, the IT tech— I like to make wine this way.” I taste through her hand-crafted wines while Sawyer ponders pairing the Inman OGV Pinot Noir with a pork chop and cherry sauce. Uh oh, he’s making me hungry. We grab a bottle of Inman Sparkling Blanc de Noir for dinner in Santa Rosa at Three Squares, Chef Josh Silvers’ “wholesome comfort food spot” in the former Syrah location. The Inman sparkler pairs with starters and shrimp scampi; Sawyer reckons a Benovia Russian River Zinfandel would pair with the beef brisket or the special Thursday fried chicken “square meal.” For dessert, there’s Sebastopol on a plate. “Since Gravensteins are in season, we pay homage to the arc of Sonoma taste with apple pie, apple crisp, you name it,” says Silvers. Sawyer and I return to The Lodge at Sonoma and sip some Limoncello di Sonoma in the comfortable Bean and Bottle lounge. “Sonoma has massive redwood forests, the coast and city life. And so many places to dine and learn about wine,” muses Sawyer. NOV E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3 55 Inman Family Wines’ Kathleen Inman at barrel tasting Medlock Ames tasting room with communal table Photo : Joe Fletcher Medlock Ames tasting room Photo : Joe Fletcher
NVLife_NovDec_2013
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