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NVLife_JulyAug_2013

Chianti Classico I t a l i a n W i n e C o u n t r y D r e a m i n ’ by I a n W h i te If you’re anything like me, you know very little about foreign wine, and more than anyone should about Napa Cabernet. However, I recently had the pleasure of visiting the Tuscan wine country, specifically the Chianti Classico region, and was blown away by the quality of wines being produced, and the history of the families producing them – some as many as 27 generations! One of the common misconceptions is that all wines from the Chianti region are the same, and that they come with the base of the bottle enclosed in a cute straw basket (called a “fiasco”). That’s almost the same as buying a boxed wine from California and assuming that all wines from California, Napa included, are “box-level” wines, or come in a box... The reality is that many of the wines that come in a fiasco are lower-level wines. But those from Chianti Classico are no more the same as those wines, than your favorite Napa Valley Zinfandel is the same as the boxed Zin at your local mega-mart. Why is Chianti Classico different from Chianti? Some say the wine has simply always been better, and others claim it’s the terroir. Both, perhaps, are true. But it was the “Chianti Classico 2000 Project,” a 16-year overhaul of the region, that led to incredibly high standards for farming and wine production in this specific region. While there are many detailed facets of this massive project, what you really need to know is that it led to incredible wines and a brand new lease on life for Chianti Classico. As seen on the lovely background image, provided by Bibbiano Castellina, Chianti Classico is a beautiful land of rolling hills, villas, wineries, castles, and rows and rows of vines and olive trees. It’s exactly what you should be daydreaming about when you let your mind wander to the Italian Wine Country. And yes, it’s perfectly cooked pastas with truffles, in delicate sauces, made with, and surrounded by, the freshest local ingredients. All of this swirling about (next to your bottle of Chianti Classico Reserva; yes the reserve is worth it, and the wines age well) in a romantic room filled with Italian accents, held up by historic walls, and gelato, tiramisu, and (not “or”, but “‘and”) an espresso on the way. THE WINE: The heart of these wines, and this region, is Sangiovese. There are specific rules about blends (traditional: Canaiolo, Colorino etc.| New: Merlot and Cabernet) and percentages (80% Sangiovese minimum to be a Chianti Classico) but we’re usually talking about a fresh and fruit forward wine with a touch of spice, that can take on heavy oak flavors when aged in barrel, and typically very food-friendly. SOME FAVORITES: Florence (city), Radda (town), Lamole (village), Castello d’Albola (winery/castle), Antinori (winery), Istine (Best Chianti Classico), Mazzei Siepe (best blend), Mazzei Mix 36 (best Sangiovese), Casaloste Don Vincenzo Riserva (best reserve). N a p a o n S a n g i ove s e + C h i a n t i C l a s s i co Winston Hill vineyard, where the Frank Family Sangiovese grapes are grown. Image: Elizabeth Lynch “Rich Frank has been growing Sangiovese on his hillside estate in Rutherford for nearly 20 years. I joined the winery as winemaker in 2002, and getting to make Rutherford Sangiovese has been a real treat. There are just two acres at the very top of the Winston Hill Vineyard, where it is coolest, so our production is very limited, and very special, and therefore it is in our reserve tier of wines. Other wines from this vineyard include Rutherford Reserve Cabernet and Winston Hill Red Wine. While we love Chianti Classico, if we were to compare our wine to an Italian rendition, our wine is made in much more of the Brunello vein, deep in color and very rich-layered, with complex flavors, and an outstanding food wine. The high acid of the fruit makes it great for aging.” – Todd Graff, Winemaker, Frank Family If Why did you choose to make Sangiovese? There are only a small handful of wineries that make Sangiovese here in the Napa Valley. The Pestoni family roots go back to 1882, and the family was Swiss-Italian from Monte Carrasso. Creating a Sangiovese seemed a natural for Rutherford Grove. Why is Napa great for Sangiovese? Location, location, location. The soil and microclimate are very similar to Chianti. Any thoughts on how Napa Sangiovese compares to those of the Chianti Classico region? The Classico region fruit tends to have a higher acidity, more tannins and a lighter body. Our Napa Sangiovese is 87% Sangiovese and 13% Merlot. What flavors are expected in a Napa Sangiovese? Common flavors include fruit: cherries, plums, strawberry and raspberry; spices: clove, nutmeg and cinnamon; other flavors: vanilla and black licorice. – Alejandro Alfaro, Winemaker, Rutherford Grove


NVLife_JulyAug_2013
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