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NVLife_JanFeb_2015

Something old is new again Chenin Blanc makes a comeback, offering refreshing respite from Chardonnay by Monica Martarano James We all know that the Napa Valley produces world-class Chardonnay. Some of the valley’s often overlooked varieties are old companions of Chardonnay, and they can also be beautiful and uniquely distinctive. One of these wines is Chenin Blanc. Still grown in limited quantities in and around Napa, the Chenin Blanc grape achieves impressive diversity and complexity. Showing great versatility, Chenin can be used for making a range of styles from bone-dry to semi-sweet to sparkling, or, if left on the vine to succumb to the noble mold known as botrytis, it creates a fascinating sweet wine. It is believed to date to the ninth century in the Loire region of France, and has since been planted around the world. In the ’80s, more Chenin Blanc grew in California than in France. Decreasing popularity under the forward march of Chardonnay in the U.S. has led to a decline in domestic plantings. Fortunately for us, there are a few producers who still value its diversity and continue to devote a few acres to the grape. In 1953, Betty Pocai and Van Ballentine married and merged their vineyards together to form Balentine Vineyard s. Both are still busy running the day-to-day operations and, to date, Van has worked on over 60 vintages. Their estate-bottled Chenin is grown in rocky soil near St. Helena, a situation that yields a small amount of intense fruit. The 2013 Chenin starts bone-dry, and the first sniff shows bright fruit tinged with mineral aromas. The palate is balanced with subtle fruit and crisp acidity. Pairs well with freshly shucked oysters. Open to the public. 707-963-7919 Nestled in the valley in a historic 1920s farmhouse (complete with black dog and fireplace) is Casa Nuestra. The organic vineyards were established in 1979 and produce a wide variety of estate-bottled wines. Their 2013 vintage is well-structured, with light floral aromas and a dusty, rocky note on the palate. Try a glass with sashimi. By appointment only. 707- 963-5783 At Chapelet Vineyard , Donn and Molly Chappellet planted Chenin in 1967 when they acquired the property on Pritchard Hill. After forty years, they replaced the unpopular Chenin with Cabernet Sauvignon. A few years later, Molly persuaded the family to bring back the Chenin and it was replanted in 2007 as an homage to Molly; she designed the label which bears her signature. The 2012 vintage is a symphony of citrus blossoms, honeydew and mineral aromas, plus a viscous mouthfeel sporting Meyer lemon, key lime, quince and a crisp finish. Pairs beautifully with lobster. By appointment only. 707-286-4219 A good example of Chenin’s diversity can be found in the Clarksburg appellation southeast of downtown Sacramento. Page Wine Celars/Revolver Wine Company , located in Napa, sources its fruit from Clarksburg. Bryan Page, nouveau punk garagiste winemaker, rocks the Chenin. The 2013 Chenin offers a honeyed floral aroma with flavors of pear and white nectarine. Lovely with a simple chicken salad or charcuterie. Open to public Friday and Saturday, or by appointment. 707-255-4665 72 www.nAPAVA L L E Y L I F E magaz ine. c o m


NVLife_JanFeb_2015
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