recipe for the good life The Adventurous kitchen by chEF kEN FRANk IT’s NIcE To BE kINg FoR A DAY Wtime than now to treat money to obtain caviarIf you spend goodhile there really is no seasonfor caviar, there is no better yourself like royalty and indulge. Caviar is the with fine nuanced flavor salted roe of any member of the sturgeon family. it’s crazy to serve it other All others, according to international law, must be labeled with the name of the fish, often than very simply. salmon or whitefish. While there are a good two dozen species of sturgeon, only a handful produce roe that is considered truly gourmet eggs are surprisingly firm. They are carefully quality. As little as 100 years ago the United passed through a screen to separate any little States was a major world supplier of caviar from pieces of membrane binding them together. the Hudson, Columbia and Sacramento Rivers. Then they are weighed and a small percentage For most of the past century, caviar production of salt is gently mixed in to start the cure. At was based in the Caspian Sea, controlled by the this point the caviar is still too firm to be eaten. Soviet Union and Iran. Pollution and overfishing Over time the salt softens the eggs, making them have nearly ruined the wild fishery there and tender and the caviar ready to eat. most caviar is now farm raised. It turns out you The primary quality indicators which can grow sturgeon nearly anywhere you have a determine the price are; color, size of the bead, good supply of clean cool water. I have tasted flavor and texture. All of the good quality farm excellent caviar from Europe, South America, raised caviars are delicious. Larger, lighter colored Siberia, China and Israel. One of the earliest eggs with mild buttery flavor and a delicate pop successful sturgeon farming efforts was right in on the tongue are the moist highly prized. Sadly, our backyard on the Sacramento River. genuine Beluga, considered the very best is now The process of making the roe into caviar is nearly extinct and illegal in the United States. really quite simple. When the roe is fresh the You can keep caviar for a good month in the coldest part of your refrigerator, the colder the better. Once opened and exposed to air, both the texture and flavor degrade quickly, so it is best RosTI PoTAToEs wITh cAVIAR Serves 4 consumed all at once. If you spend good money to obtain caviar Shred the potato on the coarse side of a box grater. Form with fine nuanced flavor it’s crazy to serve it 1 Russet or Kennebec 4 patties a couple of inches in diameter and about ¾ of an other than very simply. It’s delicious with a potato (dry stored, inch thick. Heat 1/8 inch of cooking oil in a heavy sauté pan spoon, on toast maybe with a little chive or top not too fresh) until a test shred of potatoes sizzles when dropped in the quality butter. It’s often served on a simple Blini Peanut or other neutral pan. Slide each patty into the pan with a spatula and cook with some crème fraiche. My favorite, by far, is cooking oil sizzling, but not smoking hot, until crispy golden brown on a Rosti potato, just out of the pan. Crispy 4 teaspoons crème fraiche fried potato on the outside, warm and tenderon each side. This should take 7 or 8 minutes. Immediately remove from pan to a paper towel, transfer to serving plate on the inside, topped with a little crème fraiche At least an ounce of caviar and top with crème fraiche and a dollop of your favorite and a good dollop of cold briny caviar it’s an caviar. explosion of flavor and texture - hot and cold, salty, crispy and tender, one of the single finest bites you will ever put in your mouth. 60 w w w. N A PA V A L L E Y L I F E m A g A z I N E . c o m
NVLife Jan-Feb 2013
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