re c i p e f o r l ove The Adventurous Kitchen by chef ken frank Terrific chocolate truffles While there is no season for chocolate, Valentine’s Day likely marks the high point for its consumption. Chocolate has been cultivated for nearly 3,000 years, but was consumed almost exclusively as a warm beverage until Europeans figured out how to make it into candy bars less than 200 years ago. Chocolates make an excellent romantic gift, all the more so when you make them yourself. The most basic chocolate truffles are incredibly simple to make. Like most tasks in the kitchen, with patience and practice you can become a very skilled confectioner. The flavor combinations are unlimited. Chocolate truffles get their name from their resemblance to the fragrant tuber. At the heart of truffles is “ganache,” a mixture of melted chocolate and cream, a core recipe in any pastry kitchen. The simplest truffles are made of ganache, scooped into a ball and rolled in cocoa powder or chopped nuts. Dipping them in melted chocolate is a little bit more work, but the resulting crisp thin shell and smooth creamy center is hugely rewarding. This involves a little more understanding of chocolate science, but it’s well worth the effort. Working with chocolate is easy, when you get it just right. “Tempering” chocolate is the key to success. Tempered chocolate has a nice shine and good snap, and it resists melting at too low a temperature. You must use an accurate digital thermometer. The easiest way to temper chocolate is the “seed” method, starting with a piece of good tempered chocolate. Start by cutting good quality dark chocolate into small pieces, and gently melt 3/4 of it in a clean, dry bowl over a pan of barely simmering water, stirring frequently until it reaches 116 degrees. Remove from heat and allow to cool, stirring frequently until it gets down to 85 degrees. Add the chopped pre-tempered pieces and stir for 2 minutes. Then return to the pan of simmering water and re-heat to 90 degrees. Keep the chocolate as near 90 degrees as possible for best dipping, but do not overheat or you will lose the temper and have to start over. Never allow even a drop of water to get in your chocolate. Ganache for Chocolate Truffles Yields approximately three dozen truffles 8 oz. good quality dark chocolate, at least 62% cocoa 1/2 cup whipping cream 1 Tablespoon unsalted butter cocoa powder, chopped nuts and flavorings are entirely optional Chop the chocolate into small pieces and place in a bowl. Bring the cream to a simmer in a heavy sauce pan over moderate heat, being careful not to scorch it. If you want to add a little flavoring, do it now, in the cream. You can steep spices or coffee beans, or you can add a dash of liqueur, like Grand Marnier or Amaretto, or a flavor extract such as vanilla or peppermint. Pour the cream onto the chocolate, add the butter and stir for a few minutes until the mixture is silky smooth. Allow to cool to room temperature and then chill two hours in the refrigerator. Scoop the chilled ganache with a melon baller and roll in cocoa powder or chopped nuts. Bon appétit! 68 www.nAPAVA L L E Y L I F E magaz ine. c o m
NVLife_Feb_2014
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